Make-up and Costumes worn in Kathakali

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Kathakali make-up is an intricate method which takes three hours to complete. The illusionistic outcome of Kathakali and its ability to move the audience to a surreal world owes itself to the make-up used. The colourfully vibrant costumes further added to its appeal. The make-up has been known to have a mask-like power. It helps in giving a super human look to the actors. The make-up of the male character other than the saint is tedious. Although, there is no mask used and the paint is applied directly to the faces of the actors. The make-up is directly applied to the face and it does not obstruct the full expression of the face. All the colours used in the make-up are obtained from natural substances and herbs.  

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The red and yellow colours are made by powdering stones like Chaayilyam and Manayola respectively. A mixture of lime and rice flour serves for white. The green colour is produced by mixing Manayola and Neelam (blue). Coconut oil is used as the base for mixing these stone powders. Another stone named Chenchilyam is powdered and applied in order to protect the skin from burns.  Kanmashi or Kajal (the black substance) is prepared by burning ginger oil, Kumkumam or saffron is used for the make-up. Nowadays, these mixing processes have been replaced by easily available material like paper pulp etc. 

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The actors apply the make-up on themselves with the assistance of a trained specialist known as Chutti artist. The Chutti plays a crucial role in differentiating the characters and their personality and has the following basic classification Pachha (green), Katti (knife), Tadi (beard), Kari, Minukku. This artist dexterously applies a well proportioned three dimensional figure on the actor’s face. The colours used for the make-up are made by a combination of coconut oil and ground rocks. The make-up colour also plays an important role in Kathakali. According to Sastras colour symbolism has got significance. They reflect certain categories of emotions and gunas (attributes). The classification and nature of character are as follows:

• ·         Green represents Sattivika nature
• ·         Red represents Rajasic nature
• ·         Black represents Tamasic nature
• ·         Yellow represents Sattivika and Rajasic nature
• ·         Green goes with godliness
• ·         White with spirituality
• ·         Red with ambition and violence
• ·         Yellow with passivity
• ·         Black with evil

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This takes the actor about four hours to prepare. A line of rice paste is applied on the actor’s face and that is carefully spread on all over the face to acquire the right shape. Layers and layers of the paste are applied until the accurate height is achieved. The dancers put on large head gears Kireedam. The extraordinary costumes and make-up give out to lift the actors above the level of sheer mortals, which transport the audience to a world of wonders.